Sunday, December 4, 2011

Normandy, birthdays and a Holland Christmas market

Once again nearly a month has passed since my last post - we had just gotten over the excitement of Halloween and all that entails - and now Christmas preparations are in full swing.  The month started off terribly busy for Scott - which included a trip to Portugal for work.  Unfortunately, he was unable to see a lot, as he was working 16 hour days while there.  His crazy schedule continued back home for most of the month, and he wasn't able to take the full week off at the end of November as he'd intended.  He was, however, able to take a few days off and, instead of just laying around the house, catching up on sleep as I'm sure he would've loved to do, he appeased his wife and we went on a little driving trip to Normandy - a place where we both wanted to visit before leaving here.

I was a little nervous about going to Normandy this time of year - the November coastal weather could have spelled disaster - but we lucked out.  Although we didn't have a whole lot of sun, more importantly, we didn't have any rain either, and the temperatures were pretty mild.  We started off a little later than anticipated, and ended up driving through France in the dark.  Once again, we had GPS problems in France - this time our car's adapter wouldn't work - so we had to find our hotel in this tiny French town pretty much blind - as we didn't have a map of the town.  It was pretty crazy - driving around the French countryside - through all of these small little walled towns with pretty much no clue where we were going.  But, we made it - barely, as the worker at the hotel had almost given up on us and was packing up for the night.  It was kind of amusing to wake up the next morning and find that our hotel was actually right across from the ocean.

We started off the next morning exploring the town we stayed in, Arromanches.  Arromanches was basically ground zero for D-Day.  It is also quite the beach resort town, apparently - however, beach crowds were certainly not an issue this time of year.


We then headed to the WWII American Cemetery and War Memorial.  There is quite an impressive visitor's center that has a nice overview of events leading up to the D-Day invasion, but also highlights many individuals who sacrificed their lives for not only their country, but also the people of France.  This was what struck me most - and what I think is often forgotten - is that these young men were sacrificing themselves for the liberation of the French people, and how grateful they still are, all of these years later.  Some of the most powerful testimonies in a couple of movies that were shown there came from a couple of local people who were present when the allies arrived.  It is estimated that between 15,000 and 20,000 French civilians were killed during the battle of Normandy.

France has given the US permanent free use of the land that the cemetery and war memorial sit on.  It is maintained by an American commission, and it is beautiful - immaculately kept.  It sits on a beautiful peace of land that overlooks part of Omaha beach and the Normandy coast.  There are over 9000 soldiers buried here - all marked by a white cross with their names, date of death and dog tag numbers etched on.  After the war, the families of the soldiers had the option of bringing their loved ones back home to be buried, or left to be buried with their comrades (almost 2/3 opted for repatriation).




A memorial statue that represents the spirit of American youth. 



American youth:)

Part of the wall inside what is known as the Garden of the Missing, with the names of over 1500 soldiers who were never found.  

This is one of the two Niland brothers who are buried here - famous from "Saving Private Ryan."



In all it was a very moving experience - kind of similar to the feelings of being at a Holocaust Memorial or concentration camp.  Of course, our visit was not without some excitement, in true Miller form...  We were sitting in their little movie theater and in walks a guard asking if we are the owners of a silver Ford Focus - apparently 'one of us' forgot to set the parking break and the car had rolled into the middle of the parking lot.  About ten minutes after that, Bo takes off running and fell down (not all the way) a set of cement steps, and was quite upset about it - loudly disturbing the reverence of the cemetery.

After the American cemetery we decided to make the drive to Le Mont St. Michel - which is basically an island abbey that has, for more than a thousand years, been one of the most-visited pilgrimage sites in Christendom.  The abbey was built in the 8th century after a local bishop heard the voice of Archangel Michael commanding him to build there.  Sadly, much of the abbey's historical archives were lost in WWII.  The whole scene, though, is really quite something.  The only thing connecting the island to the mainland is a causeway that was built about 100 years ago - until then, pilgrims had to walk there during low tides.  Even now, during high tides, the entire area - except for the causeway - is covered in water.  We arrived just shortly before the tide was due to come in, and had to actually park on the causeway - and were actually warned with stories of people and bus drivers who lost their cars and buses by parking in the wrong areas.  Apparently this is also the second most dangerous tidal area in the world - the tide comes in at 12 m.p.h., which we were lucky enough to see - it was incredible!

The Abbey actually sits above a tiny little village (30 full-time residents:) that has basically become a commercial gauntlet - tons of shops and restaurants line the winding street leading up to the abbey - but I found it all quite charming.  We did make it all the way up to the abbey - which was not for the faint of heart - and took a tour - before having dinner again at the bottom.  It was amazing to see (but not too clearly, as it was dark by this time) the water at high tide by the time we got back to our car.


A view of Le Mont St Michel and it's causeway - which we parked on.


Taking a break up the many, many steps to the abbey.







The Abbey's cloisters.
The tide coming in.


 The next day we started off by exploring some of the Omaha Beach D-Day sites.  Longues-sur-Mer Gun battery was built by the Germans to defend against allied seaborne attacks.  The only original coastal artillery guns that still exist remain here, as well as an observation bunker on the cliffs overlooking the beach.  When you see the beaches from this perspective, it's actually amazing that anybody storming the beaches survived.  Although we didn't see any, I read that after WWII 150,000 tons of metal (poles, barbed wire, mines, etc.) were removed from the beaches, and some of it still - and will always - remain.






It's incredible to see the peaceful French countryside and almost impossible to imagine the horrible fighting that took place here.




The inside of the German bunker is very creepy - very 'Blair Witch' like.



We spent about an hour more than we had intended at Omaha Beach, as one of us - who again, shall remain nameless, lost the car key.  After much searching and praying Scott found it just lying in the grass around one of the bunkers - which was quite the miracle.  I'm not sure what we would have done, as the information stand was closed and the closest town was MILES away.  With that, it was way past nap time, so we just decided to get back in the car and take the long way home, driving through some towns we wanted to see and stopping when we felt like it.  

Bayeux Cathedral, in Bayeux, France.  This Cathedral is as big as Paris' Notre Dame - and beautiful.  Bayeux was the first town liberated after the landing, and the closest city to the D-Day landing site not destroyed by bombing.  Apparently a local convent chaplain made sure London knew it was not a German headquarters and of no strategic importance, and a scheduled raid was cancelled.  
The very quaint port city of Honfleur, which also escaped the bombs of WWII.  

Honfluer's Cathedral - apparently the inside resembles the feeling of being in a boat, although we weren't able to get in.
We also drove through the town of Rouen, France.  I have always wanted to visit the Joan of Arc church - Joan of Arc is the Patron Saint of France.  However, as it was dark, and Rouen is much, much bigger than either of us had anticipated, we had a difficult time getting to the site, and basically just got to drive by the church as well as Place du Vieux Marche, the market square commemorating the spot where she was martyred.  If we ever get the chance, I'd love to go back to Rouen, as it seems like a very neat town.  So that was it, a fairly short, but nice, trip to Normandy - and another spot checked off our list.

Last Sunday marked our second Thanksgiving celebration we've had in Belgium.  The US partner Scott works with invited all of the US PWC'ers and their families over for a traditional Thanksgiving dinner. It was very nice to celebrate the day.  I was feeling a little homesick on Thursday - knowing what we were missing, I basically just ignored the fact that it was Thanksgiving back home.  So we treated Sunday like it was Thanksgiving instead - Macy's parade, football, turkey and all. 


We had a big birthday in the Miller household this week, as Will turned five.  I can't believe he's five already!  He actually asked me that day if I was sad that he was turning five!?  When I replied that I was happy he was growing up so much, but I was still just a little sad because he and Bo are growing up so fast he replied, "well mom, that's what us kids do - we just grow up too fast."  He can be very sweet sometimes:)  The day of his birthday the four of us spent his birthday dinner at his place of choice - McDonald's - followed by cake and ice cream at home.  Then on Friday we had a few of our friends (and his friends) over for his favorite meal - spaghetti and meatballs.  I think it was a very nice birthday for him - he kept telling me how fun his birthday was.  When I think back to his fourth birthday, I feel like he's made a lot of progress here!  We were in Milan last year for his birthday, and, although we tried to make it fun for him, I don't think we succeeded too well.  I specifically remember a moment in a restaurant that night when he was acting up and I was reprimanding him and he started crying and saying that he 'hated his birthday.'  At that point I think it was all I could do to not start crying myself, and was about ready to pack my bags and move home - and throw him the biggest birthday party a four year old had ever seen.  I think he had hit bottom in terms of missing Minneapolis and his friends and not liking school here, and I had hit bottom in terms of 'mom's guilt.'  This year, however, he is in a very different place - content and happy with school and his friends here - and I couldn't be happier for him.  I'm very proud of him - he's seen a lot of changes in the last year and a half - and he seems to be adjusting very well.


Opening the present he's been asking every day for - a Spider Man web shooter.





My friend Christie also celebrated a birthday this week, so we celebrated with her as well.

And finally, yesterday we were wanting to go to Aachen, Germany to their Christmas market, but as it was raining we decided to head to The Netherlands to a town that supposedly held their market in the town caves?  Strange, but true.  Valkenburg is a very neat little Holland town built into a couple of caves underneath a giant castle ruin.  I hope to make it to another Christmas market here this week, but time is flying by, and I'm not sure it's going to happen!  We'll definitely get to the Brussels market before we head back to the US for Christmas - hopefully next weekend.  







They had a giant sand sculpture exhibit of The Christmas Story, which was very neat.  This was the city of Bethlehem.  Not sure what it is about The Netherlands and their sand sculptures...

We stuck around for the Christmas parade, which was pretty underwhelming, but ended with a bang, as Santa made an appearance.  Bo was sooo excited.
Will finished up soccer a couple of weeks ago with a big tournament.  He really enjoyed soccer this year.  We had our friends' two girls that weekend as well, and getting out of the house with two extra kids was a lot more difficult than I'd anticipated!  The kids all had fun though - built in playmates!




Getting his certificate and medal.  The coach said a little something about all of the kids and for Will he talked about his 'fancy kick'.  About halfway through the season, Will started this thing where he would turn around and kick the ball from behind - from his heel.  Not sure where he got that from??
Claire and Will showing off their medals.

Will and his friend Aidan - a fellow Minnesotan.
Carmen and Bo enjoying their snacks.

Scott leaves in the morning for a training conference in Atlanta all week, so it'll just be me and the boys.  I always tell him that only good thing about him traveling is that I get the car all to myself:)  We have quite a busy week planned, as this is the last week we're here, and I have a lot of shopping and organizing to do!  I'm also in charge of a mom's night out through the American Women's Club, and a friend and I are hosting a Christmas cookie exchange here.  My dear husband has offered to be Santa for our mom's of young children's group Christmas party on Saturday - what a guy:)  We just have to figure out a way to warn Will, as he's sure to figure it out, and we we don't want him to go blabbing to all the kids that it's not really Santa Claus...